Questions and Answers
skylar on -- Asked:
im looking into getting a kit such as this but my only fear is in the long run finding replacement tre's is there a specific vehicle or something these "GM" tre's come from i need to be able to purchase the tre's from a local parts store if my rig goes down rather than order them and wait for them to come
The TRE's in this kit can be found at local parts stores. The only difference is the OE Y link tie rod end does not have the 1 ton taper. You would have to ream that out if purchased locally. Part#'s and location on vehicle: ES2026R (Pitman arm) ES2233L (Y link/passenger knuckle) ES2234R (Driver Knuckle) ES2010L (Drag link attachment to Ylink. The threaded rod is a little shorter on this one from what we provide so make sure you maximize thread contact when cutting your tube)
Billy on -- Asked:
Y Link Steering Using GM 1 Ton TRE
Is it possible to use this setup with the link coming off the pitman arm to the inside of the lower connect to be closest to the axle?
If you want the drag link to connect on the opposite side of the tie rod just order opposite of how you are mounting. For example if you want an under the knuckle mount, order the over the knuckle kit and mount it under the knuckle. This will put the taper on the back side
Josh on -- Asked:
I have an xj with 4 lift and 33 tires with 15 rims. Would you recommend the 1 ton steering or the heim kit? I would also like to know if there would be any clearance issues. Thanks
This would be the kit for easiest install for your vehicle. Tubing is prebent to clear diff cover and sway bar linkage https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2237.html
Hugh D. on -- Asked:
Will this under the knuckle work on a 97 XJ bolt on ?
This is a do it yourself welder/builder kit. You can use this if you're good with a welder(bleepin jeep made an install video for this kit on their XJ they posted on youtube).
Our fully welded kit for XJ, TJ, LJ, AJ and MJ can be found here: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2237.html
This kit only requires you to ream your knuckles and pitman arm for the larger GM 1 ton taper and then can bolt it in.
Mike on -- Asked:
Will this kit work for RHD Jeep Cherokee? Or will it require special parts to do so?
You can use this on RHD. You would just want to select your "ream direction" for the opposite of what it says. So if you want to run this steering kit on top of your knuckles, you would want to select the "under the knuckle" selection, and if you want to keep it under the knuckle, you will want to select "over the knuckle" on the ream direction
Travis W. on -- Asked:
If I get the Y link kit and I don‚Äôt want to buy a reamer and just drill them out to 7/8 and put them tapered inserts in,I do need to put one in the pit arm right? Answered:
Yes, but for the pitman arm you need to use part number: DLINSERT and weld this insert into your pitman arm.
The pitman arm tie rod end included in this kit is a high-angle TRE and is a little bit deeper ream on this end, though it is the same angle.
Tony W. on -- Asked:
Will this kit work for my 1969 Bronco? I didn't see it listed in the Bronco section. Thanks Answered:
I believe you have a dana 44 in that year bronco. You can use this kit as long as you ream your knuckles and pitman arm for Chevy 1 ton ends.
Thomas J. on -- Asked:
What do I torque down the tie rod ends down to?
45 ft. lbs. If the cotter key doesnt line up, tighten it a little more.
Ryan on -- Asked:
Will this kit work for a 2003 rubicon?
Yes. Cutting and welding is required with this kit and more than likely you will need to add a bend to the tie rod to clear the differential cover and track bar mount and then put a bend in the drag link for it to bolt up square.
We do offer a fully welded and bent version of this kit for several Jeep applications including yours: https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/R2237.html
Both kits use GM one ton tie rod ends so you do need to ream your knuckles for the larger stud, or use our tapered knuckle and pitman arm inserts.
Evan on -- Asked:
Does y link ball joint work over the knuckle.
I see pictures of it both ways but over the knuckle vs under it would flip the drag link from one side to the other.
Im wanting to go over the knuckle on 2002 cummins. It looks like was the sway bare mounts are cut out of way it should clear .
Would be nice to see it on that 98 dodge.
It works both over and under, you'll choose that when ordering it.
We supply a Y link end reamed appropriately to your choosing, that way the drag link will always be out front where it belongs.
caleb on -- Asked:
will this product fit my 1996 ford f350 dana 60 . i know ill have to reem out the knuckle . but was curious if the DOM tubing was long enough
The kit is supplied with 54" of DOM tube which is generally more than enough for most full width trucks. You also have the weld in bungs and tie rod ends themselves that add additional length. You do want to take into account any bends that may need to be added to clear the differential cover on full turn.
I am running this kit on my 98 Dodge 2500 with Dana 60 and needed a 5 degree bend on each end of the tie rod to clear the cover and panhard mount, but there was more than enough tube.
jim on -- Asked:
What do you recommend for a steering box to drive this set up?
This will work with any "crossover" style steering boxes with the pitman arm reamed for GM 1 ton taper(7 degree taper/ 1.5" per foot).
Michael on -- Asked:
Will I need to bend the tube to for clearance? I have already removed my sway bar link brackets? Thanks
We have found on many vehicles you do need to add about a 5-10 degree bend to each end of the tie rod to clear the differential cover and panhard bar(if applicable) to turn full lock.
It will vary vehicle to vehicle.